Papikondalu Papi Hills Andhra Pradesh January 2017
Rajahmundry, East Godavari, INDIA

All of a sudden I and my wife decided to visit Papi Hills known as Papikondalu in Telugu. The mighty Godavari flows through the Papi Hills in East and West Godavari districts of Andhra Pradesh and it is known to be a very picturesque and a good place to enjoy a boat ride. We decided to drive down from Hyderabad to Rajahmundry, the nearest place.

Beautiful Papikondalu Hills Papi Hills. Photo Sreenivas J

We set out on January 11 morning and reached Rajahmundry at 3 pm and checked into River Bay hotel at Goutami Ghat. This hotel is located on the bank of Godavari and offers beautiful views of the river though I did not like the hotel room much.

Next, we booked tickets on a boat at AP Tourism office which is located nearby. The AP Tourism operates only one big boat with 40-odd passenger capacity. Private operators ply bigger luxury boats with push back chairs in the air-conditioned lower deck and normal chairs on the upper deck.  

On January 12, we reached the AP Tourism office at 7 am from where we were taken in a bus 40 kms away to Polavaram village. Here a dozen boats were waiting to pick up the tourists like us. At this point the river is wide and deep enough to allow the big boats to ply. On one side the Polavaram Project a multi-purpose irrigation dam, is coming up. When the dam is complete it would create a huge reservoir which will submerge the beautiful Papi Hills sometime after 2019. If you love nature and want to see beautiful hills with lush green forests, you should make a trip to see these scenic hills through which the river has cut its path through the millennia before they go down under water for ever.

At Polavaram village, agents guide you to your boat. If you are carrying any luggage you should be careful because you have to walk down a steep, muddy slippery path to get to your boat. The journey from this place to the last point of Papi Hills known as Parentalapally takes almost 4 hours. Breakfast is served onboard at 9 am. Once you settle into chairs on the upper deck it is a beautiful view on all sides. The tranquil river, the misty hill range, small, blue mountains of the Eastern Ghats in the distance, lush greenery and a gentle breeze make you fall in love with this place. The boat stops enroute at a riverside village to pick up boxes of piping hot South Indian lunch for us which is served at 1 pm.  Unless you are a hardcore nature lover who likes to take in the sights and sounds of hill and river the journey can be boring and monotonous. To keep families and restless kids entertained, the boats hire youngsters with dancing skills and they try to provide some entertainment with high pitched Tollywood hits blaring out of loud speakers. This spoiled my mood for a while and the decibel levels gave me a headache but a majority of the co-passengers enjoyed it. So, if you are looking for a quiet ride, forget it. There will be plenty of noise. The boat makes a stop at a riverside village where a famous temple is located.

Godavari flowing through a gorge in Papikondalu Papi Hills. Photo Sreenivas J

We chug upstream and as we enter the Papi HIls range the river narrows down to just 400 metres at some places and it is a sight to behold. The scenery of the river meandering through the gorges and ravines with lush green hills on either side is magnificent.

After a quick break at Parentalapalli, the last stop of Papi Hills tour, we start the return trip and reach Polavaram by 6 pm and take the bus back to Rajahmundry where we are dropped off from where we were picked up. We thoroughly enjoyed the beauty of these hills which would soon be lost of forever. We decided to stay the night at Challa Residency which was decent for Rs 1,500 a night.

Hyderabad to Rajahmundry is about 450 kms by road. There are trains, AC luxury buses, and flights too.

If you are going by road, you take Hyderabad-Vijayawada NH 65, Vijayawada-Rajahmundry NH 16 also known as AH 45 (Chennai-Srikakulam Highway). The Toll tax is quite high..close to a Rs 900 for both sides journey. 

AP Tourism boat ticket is Rs 650 per person. Private boats charge Rs 700. All boats have life jackets and basic life saving equipment. Season is October to March.

I always wanted to the see the Konaseema region, known as mini Kerala of Andhra Pradesh. So the next day we drove down that side.

Aguada Fortress, Goa

Early morning fog lifts over the Arabian Sea in this view from Aguada Fortress, Goa.

Tourist boats weave patterns in the calm waters of the bay below Aguada Fortress.

Away from Calangute and Baga, I found the Sinquerim beach quiet and beautiful.

Huge sea-facing mansions

Nagarjuna Sagar

Once the muddy monsoon inflow has settled down, the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam can be a good place to spend a day.

The huge reservoir acquires a blueish tinge and the bare rocks and small islands give it an ethereal look.

The Nagarjuna is the largest masonry dam in the world. There is one small island about 2 kms in the reservoir where there is a museum which exhibits all the relics of a third century Buddhist settlement that were found when the reservoir was being dug.

Ruins of centuries old temples were also unearthed which have been reconstructed on the island.

Ruins of centuries old temples were also unearthed which have been reconstructed on the island.

Bannerghata National Park

I was lucky to photograph these beauties at such close range at Bannerghata National Park, Bengaluru.

A beautiful place

There are so many beautiful yet unknown places in India. One nice corner I discovered during one of my adventures is Maredmally in Andhra Pradesh.

The rains had made it lush green and the heavily wooded hills and grassy plains promised adventure.

  I believe it is a tourist destination but few bother go there probably because of its remoteness.

I found it close to what nature can offer.

During the monsoon, East Godavari district can be as beautiful as God's own country. The abundant rains transform the landscape into shades of lush green.
Your heart leaps to celebrate the vast expanses of paddy fields, grasslands, and rolling hills. Brooks sprout out of nowhere, flow merrily for a distance and disappear again into the rain-soaked ground. Wild flowers in myriad hues of azure, bashful orange, subdued lavender, blazing red and yellow explode all over the countryside. It is one huge canvas on which nature has splashed its palette. Driving on the NH 214 from the port town of Kakinada, we descend into Narsipatnam where paddy sowing was in full swing. Women singing some folk songs were in the fields working in total coordination. The men were diverting the excess rainwater from the fields into channels that seemed to stretch till the horizon.

Election tours provide great opportunities to go to fascinating places and meet interesting people. Chasing candidates in the Naxalite-infested areas of Telangana region in Andhra Pradesh, I had some of the most memorable experiences.


The legendary 1000 Pillars Temple of Warangal.


Hot idlis and coffee at a roadside dhaba at Suryapet in Nalgonda district, on election tour.




A temple of the toddy-tappers in Naxalite area of Karimnagar.



Beautiful gardens dot the Suryapet-Khammam Highway. This is at the Palair Reservoir. (Right)


Belying his age this toddy-tapper in Jammikunta near Warangal is about to reach dizzying heights as he takes to a palm tree.


(Right) A toddy-tapper with a fresh pot of the heady stuff.




It is a great drive on the Suryapet-Khammam Highway. My driver was happy to let me take the wheel!!



Early morning mist over this small lake on Nalgonda Road.

Sun'N'Sea at Chirala

..we burnt some rubber on the highway to reach this place. On the way, we emptied a liquor store..well almost. Breezing through breezers, zipping on windswept roads, and making merry. Reached there almost midnight so it took some time to find the little guesthouse. as soon as i heard the sound of waves the weariness of driving 300kms disappeared. dumped my stuff in the room and ran to meet the sea and spent a long time chatting with friends, sitting on a boat on the shore. went to sleep at 3 am but i was up again at 5 as the first rays of the sun streamed in. It was a beautiful morning on the beach though a bit hazy. Spent two wonderful days here..

Take me out to the ocean,
Take me out to the sea,
Show me the foamy waves rolling there,
As I breathe in the salty sea air!

Take me out to the ocean,
Take me out to the sea.
Show me the currents and ocean tides,
Let me see where the seaweed resides!

Romancing the mighty Godavari

Sweet River, run softly till I end my song,
Sweet River, run softly, for I speak not loud or long
Yes, we'll gather at the river,
The beautiful, beautiful river --
On the bank of the river,
Washing up its silver spray,
We will walk and play,
All the happy, golden day.

This great bridge across the river
Nay it isn’t Brooklyn
Nor the Thames
It is the bridge across the Godavari
Mighty flows the river from underneath
Its waters clashing with the giant pillars
But it gushes forward on an unbriddled song
Whisper to the clear deep blue waters
The mighty Godavari will ask you to sail along
Underneath the bridge, there flows the Godavari





One small sandbar splits
the river, then it loops left,
and the river's silver
slips under the trees,
into the forest,